It was a modified 510cc four stroke MX model with a 5 speed gearbox, I preferred this to the TE enduro model with it’s 6 speeds on account of the fact that the wider gear wheels were more robust, and anyway, It’s not that often that you really need six gears. With a 14 tooth sprocket at the gearbox end and a 52 tooth sprocket on the rear wheel, it would easily do 100 mph on a forest road, but was still geared low enough for the tight nadgery bits.
My enduro dirt bike sported a bespoke 2 into 1 exhaust header pipe, of my own design, that fitted into a longer, banana shaped silencer all of which was manufactured at home, this helped to keep the girth of the bike narrower (good for blokes with shorter legs like me) and decluttered the exhaust layout that originally employed two pipes and two silencers.
Enduro dirt bike cooling
Another mod was the manufacture and fitting of a water pump that was driven off the camshaft as opposed to the crank, this was subsequently fitted as standard on the 1990 model by the factory, I managed to install all of the standard Husqvarna parts into the housing that was machined from a solid aluminium billet by an engineering friend of mine, the impeller, shaft, bearings, cover etc.
I also fitted the shorter 2 stroke radiators thus keeping all things vulnerable up out of the way, any worries about overheating were dispelled. I ran this bike for over a year and never had it boil over even in really boggy slow going.
With an enduro dirt bike, speedy maintenance is essential.
This enduro dirt bike also had modified quick detachable wheel spindles, one spanner had both wheels out, literally in seconds. I could then, change tyres and innertubes and re-install the wheels in about 6 minutes (who’s a big ‘ed then?) Another little tip, drill a new hole in the rim next to the valve hole for the tyre clamp, It’s much easier to get the new tyre on if you start at the point where the clamp and valve are situated. When preparing the bike for competition, every item that required maintenence had to be QD, remember, you only have 10 minutes to work on your enduro dirt bike between collection from the closed control and your start time.
There were lots of other little details on my enduro dirt bike, for example, there were two chain guide rollers both of which had 2 bearings each, these were quite small and would fail every half dozen events or so, usually because of too much mud and water finding it’s way in past the seal. So, by drilling a hole through the center of the retaining bolt, then through the side of the bolt and spacer then adding a grease nipple to the end of the bolt itself, you could pump grease to the inside of the bearings which would push all of the crud out through the front, past the outer seal. These bearings would then last all season and save you a few quid into the bargain.
I really loved this enduro dirt bike, can’t think now why I sold it !!!
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